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Residents

FAQ


1) Why should I rent from your company?

We are a professional, knowledgeable, and courteous property management company. We work very hard to provide the highest quality resident services you'll ever experience.

  • We use professional vendors (painters, handymen, plumbers, carpet cleaners, etc) to ensure that your unit is in good condition. We inspect the work performed to ensure that everything is ready before you move in.
  • We are available 24 hours a day to handle emergency maintenance repairs.
  • We provide detailed Move-in and Move-out Inventory forms for proper documentation of the condition of your rental.
  • All deposits that are retained by us are kept in a FDIC insured bank.
  • When you sign your lease, you have a meeting with your property manager to go over all parts of the lease to help ensure that everyone is aware of their responsibilities under the lease.
  • All our property managers are licensed real estate professionals according to state requirements.
  • We return all calls and have centrally located offices.

2) How do I apply to rent?

Check out our application guidelines to be sure you qualify, then complete our application form and submit it to us along with the application fee for the home you want. We'll process it and let you know the results.

3) Will I sign a lease?

Yes, for most of our properties you will sign a 12 month lease that covers our responsibilities to each other throughout our tenancy. We will go over each part of the lease to ensure you understand it. After your application is accepted, your deposit is received, and your lease is signed, we'll hand you the keys to your home!

Maintenance Troubleshooting

DISHWASHER TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO

You can't get the
dishwasher to run.

The door isn't locked.
The timer or selector button is in the wrong position.
No power is reaching the unit.
The door switch is defective.
Some wires are loose.

The timer is defective.

Relock the door.
Check the setting of both the timer and selector button.
Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
Check the door switch for damage.
Check all the terminals on both the
timer and motor.
Replace the timer.
Dishes are still dirty
at the end of the wash.

The water isn't hot enough.



The dishes are not correctly
prepared for washing.
The dishes aren't stacked
correctly.

The detergent is too old.

The detergent dispenser
doesn't open.




The spray arms are blocked.

There is no water in the tub.

First, check the temperature of the
hot water from the tap - it should
be between 140oF and 150oF.
Also check the hot water setting.
Scrape and rinse all dishes before
loading the dishwasher.
Dishes can't touch and must face
the direction of the spray to get
completely clean.
Start over with fresh dishwasher
detergent.
First, check the detergent cup and
remove hardened detergent or
mineral deposits. Also be sure the
lid is not blocked and check the
dispensor solenoid. The timer 
may be defective.
Check and make sure nothing is
blocking the arms.
See next section of the chart. 
The dishwasher's tub
doesn't fill with water.
There is a defect in the water
in the water inlet valve or
solenoid.
The water filter is clogged.

The overflow switch has a
defect.

The timer is defective.
Check the valve.


Check to see if your water inlet
valve has a filter and clean it.
Check the switch. If it freezes in
the FULL position, the unit will not
fill.
Replace the timer.
You can't get the water
to stop running.
The water inlet valve is stuck.

The timer is defective.
There is a defect in the over-
flow switch.
Check the valve and see if you can
shut it.
Replace the timer.
If the switch is frozen in the
EMPTY position, the water will
continue to run.
The water isn't
draining out of the
unit.
There is a kink or a clog in
the drain hose.

There is a defect in the
pump motor.
The timer is defective.
Disconnect the drain hose and
blow through it to be sure it's
clear.
Call a qualified contractor.

Replace the timer.
The dishes aren't
drying.
There are mineral deposits on
the heating element.
The heating element wire is
loose.
The heating element has
burned out.
The timer is defective
The deposits should come off with
vinegar.
Check all the electrical connections
around the heating element.
Replace the heating element.

Replace the timer.
Water is leaking out of
the dishwasher.
The door seal is damaged.

The overflow switch is
defective.
The door hinges are broken.

The heating element nuts
are loose.
The hose clamps are loose.


Replace the door seal. Check the switch for damages.
Replace the hinges.

Tighten the nuts that attach the
element to the tub.
To see if there's a loose connect-
ion, you may have to move the
unit.
The dishwasher is
unusually noisy.

The spray arm is hitting the
dishes.

The water inlet valve is
damaged (a knocking sound
while the unit fills).

There isn't enough water
in the tub.

Reload the unit, so dishes don't
touch the spray arms.

Replace the water inlet valve.



Stop using other faucets while the
dishwasher fills.

 

 

GARBAGE DISPOSAL TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM

POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO
You can't turn on the
motor.
There is no power.


The on/off switch is defective.


The overload protector switch
is tripped.
The motor has a defect.
Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
And if the disposal is plugged into
a wall outlet, check the outlet.
On continuous-feed models, check
the wall switch. On batch-feed
models, check the stopper switch.
If the flywheel is jammed, free it. 
Then, push the reset button.
Call a qualified contractor.
 
Motor hums but
unit doesn't grind.
The flywheel is jammed.
The motor bearings have
frozen.
Free the flywheel.
Call a qualified contractor. You'll
probably have to buy a new unit.
The disposal
continously blows
fuses.
Too many appliances are
plugged into the circuit.
Install a 15-amp circuit just for the
disposal.
You can't stop the
disposal.
The on/off switch is defective. Call a qualified contractor.
The disposal grinds
things too slowly.
There is not enough water.

There is improper waste in
the unit.
The shredder ring is dull or
the flyweights are broken.
Run more cold water when using
the disposal.
Only dispose of materials allowed
by the manual.

Replace defective parts.

The disposal drains
slowly.
There is not enough water.

The drain is clogged.



The disposal isn't grinding
finely enough.

Run more cold water when using
the disposal.
Don't use harsh chemical agents.
Flush with hot water to remove a
grease clog, then remove the
drainpipe and clear it.
Replace a dull shredder ring or
any broken flyweights.

The disposal is
making an unusual
amount of noise.

There is a metallic object in
the unit.
The mounting screws are loose.
A flyweight is broken.
The motor is defective.

Inspect the unit and fish out the
object with tongs or forceps.
Tighten the mounting screws.
Replace the broken flywheel.
Call a qualified contractor.

There is a leak in the
disposal.

The sink connection is loose.

The drain connection is loose.

The housing gasket is damaged.

Tighten the flanges holding the
gasket or replace the gasket.
Tighten the drain flanges or
replace the drain gasket.
Replace the gasket.



REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO

The refrigerator
has stopped running,
no sound can
be heard
and the light is out

There is no power at the outlet.


The power cord is damaged.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
Check the outlet with a VOM or a
lamp. If refrigerator blows fuses, put it on it's own circuit.
Replace the cord.
The refrigerator
has stopped
running, the
light is on
and you hear occaisionional
clicking.
The condensor coils
are dirty.
The condensor fan is defec-tive (frost-free type).
The voltage reaching the unit
is incorrect.

There is a defect in the therm-
ostat.
There is a defect in the
compressor.
Clean the coils.

Clean the fan.

Check the voltage with a VOM, then
call the power company if it's not
between 105 and 125 volts.
Test the thermostat and replace
if neccessary.
Call a qualified contractor.
The refrigerator
constantly cycles
on and off.
The wrong voltage is reaching the unit.
There is a defect in the
compressor.
The refrigerator is leaking.
The condensor coils are
dirty.
Run the unit on its own circuit and
check the voltage at the outlet.
Call a qualified contractor.

Call a qualified contractor.

Clean the coils.
The refrigerator
doesn't cool well or
runs all the time.
The thermostat is on the wrong
setting.
The condenser coils are dirty.
The door gasket is damaged.
The door sags.
There is heavy frost accumula-
tion.
The door is open too much.
The weather is hot and humid.
The light is on inside.
The insulation in the door and
sides are wet.


The room is too warm.

The evaporator fan is damaged.
The condenser fan is damaged.
The defrost fan is defective.
The refrigerant has leaked out.
Change the thermostat
temperature.
Clean the coils.
Check the gasket.
Straighten the door.
Defrost the unit more often.

Open the door as little as possible.
Check the door open switch.
Open the unit on a dry day and
let it dry out. Also, repair or
replace cracked door jams and
panels.
Move the refrigerator to a
cooler place or start cooling
the room.
Check the fan for damage.
Check the fan for damage.
Check the timer for defects.
Call a qualified contractor.
Frost forms
rapidly or the
unit does not
defrost at all.
The door is open too much.
The door sags.
The door gasket is damaged.
Foods are left uncovered.

The drains are clogged.
The defrost timer, heater, or
thermostat is damaged.
Open the door as little as possible.
Straighten the door.
Test the gasket and replace it.
Cover or seal all foods, especially
liquids.
Open and clean all drains.
Check the timer, heater and
thermostat for defects.
The refrigerator
makes an
unusual noise.
The unit is not sitting level.
The drain pan rattles.

The compresser mounts are
hard or broken.
The fan blades are blocked by
something.
Adjust the position of the unit.
Move the pan so it doesn't touch
the sides of the unit.
Replace the mounts.

Check the evaporator and com-
presser fans for obstructions.
The refrigerator
smells unusual.
The drains are clogged.
The drain pan is dirty.
Open the drains and flush them.
Clean the pan and disinfect it.
Water is leaking
underneath or
inside the unit.
The drain hose or drain pan is
broken.
The drains are clogged or the
pan is full.
Replace the broken parts.

Open the drains or empty the
drain pan.


ELECTRIC RANGE TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

The range
is not
working
at all.
No power reaching the range.
Check the fuse box or circuit breaker. If you
don't find a problem, call a qualified contractor.
One of the
top elements
doesn't heat. 
The element, wiring, 
terminal block or switch
is defective. 
Check each part for continuity and replace if
neccessary.
A top
element
doesn't
cook well.
The pan is the wrong size.

The element is damaged.
Use the flat-bottomed pans that just cover
the element.
Replace the element.
You can't
get the
oven to
heat.
The element, wiring,
thermastat or selector
switch has a defect.
The time is not set properly.
The timer is defective.
Check each part for continuity and replace
any that are defective.

Reread the instructions and reset it.
Replace the timer.
The top
rear
element
doesn't
heat.
The oven is in its self-
cleaning cycle.
The extremely high power requirement
during cleaning may prevent the stove
from working.
The oven
overheats.
A vent is clogged. Clean the vent.
The oven
doesn't
hold the
temperature
you set.
The door gasket is damaged
The thermastat isn't
collaberated corectly.
Replace the gasket.
Call a qualified contractor.
The oven
lamp
doesn't
work.
The bulb is burned out.

There is a defective switch
or wiring to the bulb socket.
Replace the burned-out bulb with the same
type of oven bulb.
Test the wiring and switch, then replace
defective parts.
The timer
doesn't work.
The timer hasn't been set
correctly.
The timer fuse has blown.
There are loose connections.

The timer is damaged.
Check the instructions and reset it.

Check the 15-amp fuse in the timer circuit.
Turn the power off and check the timer
connections for continuity.
Replace the timer.
The oven
door won't
stay shut.
A hinge spring is defective. Replace the defective part.
Condensation
forms inside
the oven.
The vent is clogged.

The door doesn't close
properly.
The oven doesn't preheat
properly.
Check the vent. If there is an air filter, clean
or replace it.
Check the gasket and door hinge springs.

Preheat the oven with the door ajar.
The
accessory
receptacle on
the control
panel doesn't
work.
A fuse is blown.

The wiring is defective.
Check the 15-amp fuse in the accessory
circuit.
Check the wiring and replace any damaged
wires.
The oven
stops self-
cleaning.
The door isn't locked.
The door switch, wiring or
thermostat is defective.
Try starting over again.
Call a qualified contractor.


GAS RANGE TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO
A surface burner
doesn't light.
The pilot light is out.

The gas isn't on.
Follow the instructions for relighting the pilot
on your particular range.
Call the gas company.
The pilot flame
doesn't remain
lighted.
The pilot port is clogged.
The range is in a drafty
place.
Use a small wire to clean the ports.
Try to prevent drafts near the range.
A burner is
burning
eratically.
The burner is clogged.
There is an incorrect
mixture of gas and air.
Clean the burner ports.
Call the gas company.
The oven
stops lighting.
The oven pilot light is
out.
There is a defective
thermocouple.
The gas isn't on.
Follow the instructions for relighting the oven
pilot on your particular range.
Replace the thermocouple.

Call the gas company.
The oven heats
poorly.
There is an incorrect
mixture of gas and air.
The safety thermocouple
is defective.
Call the gas company.

Replace the thermocouple.
Things bake
unevenly in the
oven. The oven
overheats.
The door gasket is
damaged.
The exhaust fan is
clogged.
There is a defect in the
thermostat.
Replace the gasket.

Clean the vent.

Call the gas company.
The burners
are producing
soot.
There is an incorrect
mixture of gas and air.
Call the gas company.
The burners
make an
unusual noise.
There is an incorrect
mixture of gas and air.
Call the gas company.
You smell gas. The pilot is out.
The gas line is leaking.

Venilate the room and relight the pilot.
Call the gas company. Venilate the room,
extinguish all flames and don't turn on any
electrical switches.


WASHING MACHINE TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO
The washing
machine will
not run at all.

No power is reaching the
outlet.
The safety switch is
tripped.

The inlet house valve
may not be open.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.

Distribute the clothes evenly in the
basket and make sure the lid is
completely closed.
Open the inlet valve.
The machine
no longer fills
with water.
The filters are clogged.
There is a kink in one of
the hoses.
The timer is not set.
Check the inlet hose filters and clean them.
Straighten the water supply hoses.

Turn the timer slightly or press the buttons
firmly.
The water
doesn't stop
running.
The overflow switch hose
is disconnected.
The overflow switch is
defective.
The timer is defective.
The mixing valve is
damaged.
Replace the water hose.

Check the switch and replace it.

Replace the timer or call a qualified contractor.
Replace the valve.

The tub fills
with water
but the
machine
doesn't run.

The lid safety switch is
tripped.
There is too much laundry
in the tub.
The motor is defective.
The timer is defective.
Make sure that the lid is closed. If it is - check
the switch.
Take some things out and wait 15 minutes for
the motor to reset.
Call a qualified contractor.
Replace the timer.
The motor
runs, but the
machine
doesn't
agitate or spin.
The drive belt has become
loose or broken.
The gears or transmission
is broken.
Tighten the belt or replace it.

Call a qualified contractor.
The machine
shakes or
moves accross
the floor.
The machine or load
isn't level.
Adjust the machine's feet or redistribute
the load.
The machine
leaks.
There is a loose hose
connection.
The hoses are defective.
The gasket is damaged.

The mixing valve has a
defect.
The pump is damaged.
The overflow switch
or sensor is defective.
Check or tighten the connection.

Replace the hoses.
Check the gasket, then replace it if neccessary.
Check the valve for cracks, then
replace it if neccessary.
Call a qualified contractor.
Check for defects and replace bad
parts.
The machine
won't drain.
There is a kink in the
drain hose.
The position of the drain
hose is too high.
The timer is defective.
The drain pump is stuck.
Straighten the hose.

The hose shouldn't empty more than 4 feet
above the floor.
Replace the timer or call a qualified contractor
Call a qualified contractor.
The water
doesn't get
hot enough.
The water heating setting
is too low.
The water supply hoses
are misconnected.
There is a defect in the
mixing valve.
The timer is defective.
Reset the thermostat to 140o-160oF.

Reverse the hose connections.

Replace the defective valve.

Replace the timer or call a qualified contractor


GAS WATER HEATER TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO
There is no
hot water.
The pilot light isn't lighted.
The pilot light won't keep
burning.




There is a clog in the burner.
There is a defective
thermocouple.
The gas is not coming out.
Carefully relight the pilot.
Make sure the gas controls are
completely turned on. Then, check
the thermocouple and be sure it is
firmly connected to the gas control
unit and positioned near the pilot
flame.
Call a qualified contractor.
Replace the thermocouple.

Call the gas company.
There isn't
enough hot
water.
The thermostat isn't correctly
set.
The thermostat is defective.
Hot water pipes are exposed.
The water tank is too small.
There is a clog in the burner.
Sediment has formed in the tank.
The hot water pipes are leaking.
Turn the thermostat higher.

Call a qualified contractor.
Insulate the hot water pipes.
Install a larger water tank.
Call a qualified contractor.
Turn off the gas and drain the tank.
Repair or replace the faucets.
The water
heater is
very noisy.
Scale and sediment have formed
in the tank.
Turn off the gas and drain the tank.
The water is
too hot.
The thermostat is on the wrong
setting.
There is a thermostat defect.
The exhaust vent is blocked by
something.
Reset the thermostat.

Call a qualified contractor.
Check the vent and clear it.
Water is
leaking
from the
heater.
There is a leak in the draincock.
The safety valve is leaking.


The tank has a hole in it.
There is a leak in the plumbing
connection.
Close it tightly or replace it.
Check the water temperature. If it is too
hot, the thermostat may be broken. If
safety valve is defective, replace it.
Buy a new water heater.
Call a plummer if not in this article.


ELECTRIC WATER HEATER TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT
There is no hot
water.
The heater has no power.
The safety thermostat has
quit working.
There is a defect in the
heating thermostats.
There is a defect in the
heating elements.
Rust or sediment has
accumulated in the tank
or pipes.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker. If
the heater rapidly blows fuses, call
an electrician.
Push the reset button. Test the heat-
ing thermostats and elements.
Test the thermostat and replace
them if neccessary.
Test the elements and replace them
if neccessary.
Drain and flush out the pipes.

The hot water
supply is too low.
The thermostat is set wrong.

The tank is too small.
Heat is getting lost in the pipes


There is a defect in the
heating element.
The hot water faucets leak.
Turn the thermostat to a higher
temperature.
Install a larger heater.
Move the heater nearer to the point
of use if possible and insulate the
hot water pipes.
Test the element, then replace it.

Repair or replace the faucets.
The water
temperature is
too high.
The thermostat is on the
wrong setting.
There is not enough insul-
ation around the thermostats.
The elements are defective.

The thermostats are defective.
Turn the thermostats to a lower
temperature.
Pack the insulation more tightly
around the thermostats.

Test the elements, then replace
them.
Test the thermostats, then replace them.
There is a water
leak.
The gasket or seal on the
element is defective.
There is a defect in the
safety valve.
the tank is rusted through.
The plumbing connection
leaks.
Check and replace the gasket or seal.

Check and replace the safety valve.

Buy a new water heater.
Call a plumber.
The heater becomes
unusually too noisy.
Rust, scale or sediment has
accumulated in the tank.
Scale has formed on the
elements.
Drain the tank and flush it out.

Remove the elements and soak them
in vinegar, then scrape off the scale.
Your hot water
is rusty or
discolored.
Rust or sediment has
accumulated in the tank.
Scale has formed on the
elements.
The water pipes are corroded.
Drain the tank.

Remove the elements and soak them
in vinegar, then scrape off the scale.
Have a plumber replace the pipes.


CENTRAL AIR-CONDITIONING TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

THE PROBLEM POSSIBLE REASONS WHAT YOU CAN DO
Water leaks
into the walls
or ceiling.
The drain hose from the
condenser pan is clogged
(in attic installations).
Make sure the hose is able to empty the
water.
The unit
constantly
cycles on
and off.
There may be something
clogging evaporator unit
or blocking the fan.
Clean out the evaporator unit.

The air
conditioner
doesn't get
cool enough.
The condenser coil is dirty.

There is direct sun on the
evaporator unit.
The insulation has fallen
off the feed line.
Clean any debris from the condenser unit so
air can circulate around the fins.
Create shade for the unit.

Secure the insulation firmly to line and replace
any worn-out insulation.

Submit a Maintenance Request

Please submit your maintenance request. Note that requests are reviewed Monday through Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except for holidays.

Submit a Maintenance Request

Pay Your Rent Online

Did you know that you can now pay your rent online? It's fast, easy, and secure, so why wait? Below, you'll find some information on how to get started and a few reasons why so many others have already made the switch!

Don't have an account?

It's easy! Just let us know you want to pay your rent online and we'll email you an account activation link. Learn more.

Get Started

Already have an account?

Click the button below to be taken to the Tenant Portal login page.

Log In

Benefits

Once you've signed up, you can:

  • View and pay your bills anytime (24/7)
  • View and pay your bills from anywhere (any computer with an internet connection)
  • Set up an automatic payment
  • Sign up for automatic reminder emails
  • Review your payment history

Convenience

Have you ever looked at a calendar and suddenly realized that your rent was due that day? Or worse yet, that it was due a few days ago and that it was now late? With online rent payments, these concerns are a thing of the past. Simply hop on your computer and in just a few minutes, your rent is paid! Or remove all doubt and schedule a payment in advance so your rent is paid automatically. And this is in addition to not having to write checks, address envelopes, or find/buy stamps...

Security

In a world where online financial predators seem more and more common, we understand if you have reservations about entering your bank account information online. But fear not! Your information is password protected and all transactions are both encrypted and securely transmitted.

30 Day Notice of Intent to Vacate

Are you moving out at the end of your lease?

If so, you need a Notice of Intent to Vacate form, which you can download here for free.

If you intend to leave the rental property, you must give Matusich & Raich the required notice of 30 days before vacating the premises. This calls for the Tenant to submit notification on the day rent is due so the moving out date is at the end of a full month's rental period.

This notice will not be accepted through e-mail. Tenants may either mail or bring it into our office for validation.

Tenant's possession of the property remains in effect until all belongings are removed and all keys returned. Tenant cannot use the security deposit as last month's rent. Rent is payable through the termination of the tenancy as stated on Management Lease.

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